"Saint James of Compostela". The ancient pilgrimage centre became the third holiest site in Christendom in the 11th century, with pilgrims following the Camino de Santiago through France and Northern Spain to see the shrine of St James the Apostle. His bones were discovered at Compostela in 813 and a magnificent cathedral was built in 11th and 12th century to house them. An old medieval town also thrived to look after the pilgrims. The cathedral's facade and inner portico are apparently it's crowning glory but are under scaffolding. So here instead is a picture of the square where the pilgrims (then and now) ended their pilgrimage. The Cathedral museum also contains an extensive collection of tapestries. Streets of old town Separately we wandered up to the Museo do Pobo Galego (People of Galicia). Unfortunately none of the exhibitions were supported by English text. The tower of the old convent contained a staircase with 3 separate spirals - each thread went to a separate floor - who has the time to make these follies!!!
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One of Galicia's capitals with a large number of bridges crossing the River Mino as it winds it way through this hilly city. The oldest bridge, Ponte Romano is from 13th century, but on Roman foundations and the newest is Ponte Milenio, a futuristic road bridge with a huge undulating pedestrian loop for great views. Caceres is another Spanish town with traces of Neolothic, Roman, Moorish and Catholic cultures. We started at Plaza Major and admired the lovely buildings around it and then went up the steps through the wall to the Museum de Caceres. This has an underground Moorish cistern from the original Alcazar. The ground floor has a central open courtyard surrounded by porticoes on 4 sides with terracotta roofs. the grate near one side of the tiled floor drains to the cistern below. You can walk into this via some narrow steps to a ledge near the bottom. There are 12 columns with horseshoe arches holding up the roof and we could see the water dripping into the cistern. Yes, it was raining.
We left here to go back into Portugal. As we drove past Estramoz we noted the mountains of marble ready to be processed. Roman Ampitheatre This was designed at the same time as its neighbour, the Theatre, but opened later in 8 BC. It was used for staging gladiatorial combats (there were 8 different types) and fights involving animals, as well as circus performances. The seating was also in 3 tiers but little remains of the upper cheap seats and there were 16 open doorways. The elliptical shaped arena had a large cross shaped ditch which was boarded over, presumably containing the wild animals. The arena was walled in marble with paintings on the side and there were 2 entrances for the gladiators. All in all, just like a footy arena. Roman Theatre was inaugerated between 15-16BC and is still in use today. It originally had tiered seating for 6000 with the lower seats for VIPs. The semicircular area in front was for the orchestre and the stage was probably wooden. the stage facade is the highlight with 2 tiers of marble Corinthian columns and a huge marble clad wall closes off the back of the stage. Between the columns are a series of statues of gods and emperors, but especially Augustus. The acoustics are good. Forum with its Portico and temple of Diana The forum was the main centre of a Roman town and here are the remains of the Forum Portico and Temple of Diana, both built in 1 AD. The Temple has survived reasonably well as it was incorporated into a Renaissance Palace in the 16th century. It had a granite rectangular base and surrounded by Corinthian columns with 6 across the front. It also had canals, ponds and a porched covered balcony. Roman Bridge over the Guadiana River This was probably built in 25 BC at the start of the colony. It is 792 ms long with 60 arches. It has a core of Roman concrete clad with stone. The middle 5 were added in the 17th C when then middle landmass was washed away. The original pillars have rounded cut edges on the upstream side ti alleviate water pressures. Alcazaba The Moorish Citadel was built next to the bridge in abt 835 by the same Emir that extended the Cordoba mosque. It is surrounded by walls 2.7 m thick and 10 ms high, but they were still defeated by the Christians in 1228 and it became a military building. The only surviving Moslem building is the Cistern, underground next to the river with a double stairway leading down to the tank and reused pilasters with columns. There were also old roman houses and roadways inside the citiadel The National Museum of Roman Art This building was designed specifically to showcase the Roman pieces found in the area and is a delight. The original statues are all here as well as enormous mosasics and other household good and trinkets. Met up with Cheryl and Guy. Elvas is the site of a more modern day aqueduct - Aqueduct de Amoreira - built in the late 16th and 17th centuries - now unused. As with many other towns it was occupied by the Moors before being recaptured in 1229. Also withstood several sieges by the Spanish and French due to its spectacular double walls and was used by the Duke of Wellington as his headquarters during the Peninsular Wars (early 1800's - there is a British cemetery as a result). We were captured as we wandered about - by an enthusiastic "custodian" of the Santa Maria de Alcacova - who gave us a detailed history of the church. A spring below the church is still used to pump water for the town supply. Arcos de Frontera - a very pretty fortified hill top town, south of Seville. The streets are narrow and wind up and down steep inclines between 2 storey whitewashed buildings. The small river, the Rio Guadalete almost completely circles it but well below so the hilltop is quite isolated with cliffs on three sides and stairs to get up when needed. Seville is the greatest city of the Spanish south, and famous for its women (flamenco), oranges, colour and festivals. the Feria de Avril (April fair) was due to start and we watched the building of the main entrance, the Portada and the hundreds of individually decorated marquees. The city is big and colouful with largest cathedral in the world, Santa Maria de la Sede de Seville built in the 1400s; a huge Gothic medieval shipyard from the 13th century; Palace of San Telmo which started as an orphanage for children of Spanish sailors but ended up a palace; the ornate stone Royal Tobacco factory built in the 1750s was the second largest building in Spain and before it closed employed 4000 women and had a moat around it; and the Plaza de Espana, built in 1928 for the Iberian-American exposition, is a vast semicircular complex with fountains, monumental stairways and a mass of tilework. However the bit we enjoyed the most was wandering through the old jewish quarter, the Barrio Santa Cruz with narrow tortuous streets, brilliantly whitewashed houses festooned wit flowering plants, little courtyards and plazas with gardens and tiled chairs, even a little spice shop. The British took over Gibraltar in 1704 and were under intermittent siege from the Spanish and French so they built high thick walls around the city from stone cut from the Rock. The main sights included St Michaels cave, a large cavern in the centre with the usual stalagtites and stalagmites (not well cared for) and some lower caves leading to a lake; Apes Den is near the top of the cable car and is where the Macaques (tailess monkeys) are fed 4 times a day so are plentiful and friendly. The Great Siege tunnels initially built by hand at the start in 1782 to get cannnon lined up to fire into Spain from halfway up the rock face. By the end of WW2 there were 50 km of tunnels.
Nowadays everyone can walk across from Spain, crossing the airport runway by foot or car. Started to sweat about getting tickets for the Alhambra. Made several efforts online and by phone and on each occasion the purchase failed. Never figured out why but saw various web site comments later that complained about Australian credit cards not being accepted. Who knows. Drove on and decided to stay at a "real place'. The guy there told us what buses to catch etc and we arrived at the gate at 2:30 and bought tickets when the website said there were none available for that day. Granada town area is off map to top left. The Alhambra visit is really several remnants of different eras: 1.. Alcazaba (fort) on the left end overlooking the present city area, and finally 2.. Nasrid Palace with the Court of the Lindaraja, Court of the Lions and the Patio de la Mezquita 3. Generalife Palace with the manicured gardens - top right 4.. Prince Charles V Palace with the Gate of Justice (Torre de la Justica) immediately to the south The Alcazaba was built in 889 and extensively walled by the 11th century. Inside the citadel were mansions, homes, schools, mosques,shops, gardens and public bath. Unfortunately most of this was destroyed by some of the Catholic Kings remodelling but especially by Napoleons troops who tried to destroy the lot. So there are now the large complexes listed plus gardens, ruins and a few smaller remnants GENERALIFEThe Alhambra GroundsThis was once the summer palace of the sultans, built in the mid13th century. It was further altered after the Christian reconquest. There are 2 courtyards with pool and fountains and enclosed gardens and the buildings wrap around them. The North pavilion was smaller but was extended by the Catholic Monarchs.Next to the buildings is the Escalera del Agua, a staircase with water flowing down its stone balustrades. It leads up the the Upper gardens. Water starts up the top and is recycled as it makes its way down the levels. AlcazabaThis was partially built by 899 and extended over the next few centuries. The walls were added by the 11th century and include lots of different towers. Unfortunately alot of the Alcazaba was destoyed in subsequent battles but the two towesr remain as well as the lower walls. Nasrid Palace OR PAlacio NazariesThis is where the Sultans worked and lived. The Mexuar was where they granted royal audiences and was completed in 1365, Comares Palace was where important guest were received and then the Lions Palace were the private royal apartments. These were all added onto and made more luxurious by sunsequent Sultans. TILES GRANADA CITYStill rainy and cold - about 5C in the mornings. Once again found the carpark close to the city centre - no services just a gated carpark - but only 10 mins walk to all the sights. Come to Cordoba mostly to see the Mezquita (old Mosque). Started in 785AD and recycling stone from old Roman villas. When first built it held 5000, then enlarged to hold about 10000 and finally 40000. At that point it consisted on 1293 colums, 280 chandeliers and 1445 lamps. When the Moorish period ended it was taken over and consecrated as a Catholic church - much gold and marble splendour added into the 16th century. Cordoba town was much more like the "Spanish" style we were expecting. Visited the small Sinagogue. Only three left in Spain and we have been to two. As usual hidden away in a back street. Very small. The ornate plaster work was done by Muslim workers. Again after expulsion of the Jews from Spain the building was used as a Catholic chapel.
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